THE INSIDE STORY

THE LINING

PERFECTLY TAILORED TROUSERS

CLAIRE'S RULES FOR SUCCESS

In this fast-paced world where "quick" and "easy" are mantras, Shaeffer has a different view. "Haute couture was first created for royalty and the unbelievably wealthy. The workmanship is meticulous, the fabrics superb, and most of the sewing is done by hand, with many interior details. Garments are often basted together, then taken apart for fit and design alterations. It is a long and involved process. It's no wonder that today's couture designs can cost as much as a car or house! Surprisingly, it may be the only luxury that ordinary individuals can enjoy, because, if you can sew, you can sew couture."

Over the years, Shaeffer has established a reputation for her intimate knowledge of the way things are done in famous European design houses. And, like someone who has figured out a magician's trick, she enthusiastically shares her discoveries with anyone interested—of which there are many, as witnessed by her packed classes. "In speaking to my students, the two most important reasons for purchasing a pattern have been the design itself, and instructions for fitting," explains Shaeffer. "Another element—the sewing directions—was often cited as a reason many years ago. In fact, before I became a sewing professional, I was one of many homesewers who used Vogue's patterns as a tutor to increase my knowledge and improve my skills. By contrast, many of today's homesewers disregard the directions in the pattern guide and rely, instead, on information from other sources." Shaeffer saw this as a gap that needed to be filled in the homesewing industry, and approached Vogue Patterns with her concept. Created to expand the knowledge and successful application of couture sewing techniques, the sewing guide sheet of each Custom Couture Collection pattern is a lesson in itself. Depending on the garment, it will include a diverse collection of haute couture and expensive ready-to-wear construction techniques, atelier secrets, easy-to-use fitting tips, interesting trivia, or methods for sewing unique or difficult fabrics. Some patterns will feature methods which have never been published such as arcane techniques, sophisticated design elements, or intricate procedures selected to appeal to the advanced seamstress and professional dressmaker; other patterns will describe more familiar couture methods and easy-to-master applications to entice novices and less-experienced sewers to experiment and explore the world of couture. "My intention," states Shaeffer, "is to broaden the horizons of homesewers and raise both the quality and standards of garment construction."

For those occasions when time is limited or when the fabric is less expensive, a set of streamlined directions, based on quality ready-to-wear, are included in the pattern. "Like most homesewers, I don't have time to sew everything 'à la couture'," declares Shaeffer, "so I frequently mix the various elements from couture and ready-to-wear to achieve the effect I want. I encourage others to do the same."

The first two patterns, a classic jacket, 7467, and traditional trousers, 7468, were selected for their longevity of styling, and include both haute couture tailoring and adaptations of these techniques for easier sewing. "I've even included some 21st-century shortcuts," Shaeffers says mischievously. So whether you're interested in expanding your sewing knowledge, or just want a great looking garment, these patterns are made for you. •