| This article by sewing expert, educator, and creator of Today’s Fit patterns Sandra Betzina, presents her methods for selecting your Today’s Fit size, and making basic pattern alterations. Her “no-fuss” approach to fitting is refreshingly lighthearted and completely unintimidating, adding a new dimension to Vogue Patterns classic style of fitting. We welcome the opportunity for our readers to learn her unique methods. | |
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A lot of women are confused about my new Today’s Fit patterns, they think it’s a large-size program. It’s not. Today’s Fit encompasses a very broad size range that starts with a 32" (81cm) bust and goes up to 55" (140cm). The proportions are what make this collection different from standard patterns. The patterns are cut smaller in the upper front chest, broader in the back, larger across the tummy and waist, and fuller in the arm. The bust point is lower and cup sizes range from B to D. I developed this silhouette based on my own experience with sewers, and the results of various university studies around the country. Today’s Fit reflects the way body shapes have changed in recent years—whether that body is small, large, or somwhere in between. Today’s Fit patterns are sized alphabetically (A through J), not numerically. I did this to force people to chose their pattern size by their measurements, not their dress size. To determine your Today’s Fit size, take your bust, waist, and hip measurements and compare them to the Today’s Fit size chart. Then, select the size that most closely matches your measurements. Now, suppose your measurements don’t fit exactly into one size—your bust is one size and your hip another? No problem. Today’s Fit patterns have three or four sizes on one tissue—(A, B, C) (D, E, F) (G, H, I, J)—so you can cut one size at the bust, another at the waist, and another at the hip. But, what if the sizes you need are not on the same tissue? Read on. ON TOP For a jacket, dress, top, or coat, purchase the pattern by the bust size, and make adjustments at the waist and hips. Let’s try this example: your bust measures a size E but your hip measures a size G, and you have small shoulders. Cut a size D above the armhole on front, back and sleeve. At the bottom of the armhole transition to a size E. Cut a size E on the front, back and sleeve below the armhole. Continue a size E for 2" (5cm) below the armhole on the side seam. Now transition out 3/4" (20mm) past the size F at the hip on front and back. This will add 3" (7.5cm) at the hip, effectively making the hip a size G, which is what you wanted.(1)     Remember, these are basic alterations principles—if you have broad shoulders and narrow hips. Just reverse the procedure. Now suppose you are 5'4" or shorter and the armhole always seems too low. Simply use the lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern between shoulder and bottom of the armhole on front, back and sleeve cap. Any pattern can be shortened by merely folding out what you don’t want between the shoulder and the bottom of the armhole.(2)     If you are tall and the armhole seems too high, the pattern can be lengthened at the same place or you can lower the armhole after the garment is constructed simply by sewing deeper in the part of the armhole below front and back notches. Two Today’s Fit jacket patterns, 7022 and 7183, have seams that extend from shoulder to hemline. This allows for easy alterations of many common fitting refinements. The seams can be taken in at shoulders, the hollow above the bust, and for narrow back, without changing the armhole or neckline.(3)    Conversely, they can be let out for wide shoulders or a broad back. These seams are especially helpful if your front and back are not in proportion, (i.e. narrow through the back waist with a fuller tummy). You can increase or decrease where necessary to achieve a professional fit. Today’s Fit patterns also have different cup sizes. Sizes A, B, and C have a B cup, D, E, and F have a C cup, and G, H, I, and J have a D cup. However, if you need a smaller or larger cup size, the alteration is easy on patterns with princess seams, such as these Today’s Fit jackets. On the front pattern piece, cut the pattern apart horizontally at the bust point, and increase or decrease 1/2" (13mm) per cup size. On the side front, cut the pattern apart horizontally at the same point, leaving a 1/4" (6mm) hinge at the side seam. Spread or collapse the side front to correspond to the altered front piece.(4)    Don’t forget to alter the front facing identically to the front. On styles with bust darts, the width of the dart can be increased for a larger bust or decreased for a smaller bust by folding out the excess horizontally and cutting apart the pattern horizontally in the dart area, reducing or increasing the amount taken out at the side seam so that the front side seam length matches the back.(5)    Because sleeve ease in Today’s Fit patterns has been reduced and sleeve girth increased, sleeve problems are reduced. If you have a large arm in comparison to the rest of your body, consider cutting the entire sleeve in the next larger size. The larger sleeve can be eased into the smaller size armhole by simply running the easeline all around the sleeve. The Bottom Line  For pants or a skirt, select your size by your hip measurement. If your waist is large in comparison to your hip, cut a larger size at the waist. If your waist is small in comparison to your hip, cut a smaller size at the waist. Waist size can be decreased or increased further by merely increasing the width of the styling elements, such as darts and pleats.Here’s an example. If your pattern has two darts in front (on each side) and one dart in back (on each side), that equals six darts. If you increase or decrease the width of each dart by 1/8" (3mm), the waist size is altered by 11/2" (3.8cm). In the case of a small waist, if your pants have one back dart (on each side), you may want to add a second dart.(6) Additional fabric can also be added or taken away at the side seams. back to top |
 If your front thigh is full, causing wrinkles over the top of the leg, add to the front inner leg, tapering back to the original cutting line by the bottom of the leg. (7)If you feel that your waistband is too high in front, cut off from the waist in center front, tapering back to the original line at the side seam. (8) back to top |
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A bit of experimentation is needed here to determine exact alteration amounts. A test pair of pants is never a bad idea. If the pants come down too far in center back, you need to add to the crotch length at the back inner leg, tapering to the original line at the pants bottom. (9) If your pants hang better when you lift the center back, then cut off 1/2" (13mm) or more along the waistline at center back, tapering to the original line at the side seam. (10) back to top |
 If you are under 5'4" or your legs are short, the proportion of the leg is better if it is a bit narrower. Simply cut a smaller size starting at the crotch point on the inner leg, and at the full hip on the outer leg. Leg width can always be adjusted if the same amount is taken from the inner and outer leg.(11)back to top |
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Go to Great Lengths To maintain the style’s silhouette, all shortening or lengthening should be done at the cutting stage, within the body of the garment. On a skirt, dress, or coat shortening or lengthening is done below the full hip—never altering more than 2" (5cm) in any one area.(12) On a jacket, if the shortening is done at the bottom edge, don’t forget to move the pockets up and reposition the buttons so that the bottom button is not too close to the hemline. Whenever lengthening or shortening pants, shorten within the body of the garment to maintain the integrity of the style. Cutting off from the bottom affects the silhouette adversely making the bottom of the pant too wide.• back to top |
| Insurance Why not invest in a fitting insurance policy? After determining all pattern alterations, simply add 1" (2.5cm) at side seams. When basting side seams for fitting, baste at 1 5/8" (4cm). Think of the garments you could have saved if you had an extra four inches to play with |
Where is Sandra Betzina? Today’s Fit patterns by Sandra Betzina can be found in the Vogue Catalog in the Vogue Plus section. There you will find all of Vogue Patterns’ special fit programs. For information on Sandra Betzina’s classes and personal appearances call (415) 386-0440, or you can visit her Web site at www.sandrabetzina.com. |
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